Ethnic wear is often the most expensive clothing we own, and it is also the easiest to damage. A single wrong wash can bleed a bandhani dupatta into a white kurta, pull loose the threads of an embroidered yoke or flatten the zari on a silk saree. The good news is that most of it comes down to a few rules based on the fabric.
Always read the label first
If the care label says "dry clean only", take it seriously, especially for silk, heavy embroidery and anything with stonework or sequins. If there is no label, use the fabric guide below and always test for colour bleeding first.
The colour bleed test
Many Indian fabrics, especially hand-block prints, bandhani and new dark colours, bleed in the first few washes. To check:
- Wet a small white cloth or cotton bud.
- Press it against an inside seam of the garment for 30 seconds.
- If any colour transfers, wash the garment separately in cold salt water (a tablespoon of salt in a bucket) for the first two or three washes.
Fabric-by-fabric guide
Cotton and mulmul
- Machine wash on a gentle cycle or hand wash in cold to lukewarm water.
- Turn printed cotton inside out.
- Dry in the shade. Direct sun fades block prints quickly.
- Iron while slightly damp for crisp results.
Rayon
- Hand wash in cold water. Rayon shrinks in hot water and in the dryer.
- Don't wring it. Squeeze gently and roll it in a towel to remove water.
- Rayon is weak when wet, so handle it gently until it dries.
Chiffon and georgette
- Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent or shampoo.
- Don't scrub. Swish the fabric through the water.
- Dry flat or on a padded hanger in the shade.
- Iron on low heat, with a cloth between the iron and the fabric.
Silk
- Dry clean, especially for the first wash and for any silk with zari.
- For lightly worn plain silk, a quick hand wash in cold water with a silk-safe detergent is possible, but test for bleeding first.
- Never soak silk or leave it wet.
- Iron on the reverse side at the silk setting.
Embroidered, sequinned and embellished pieces
- Dry clean if the work is heavy.
- For light thread embroidery, hand wash inside out in cold water and never wring.
- Iron from the reverse side, on a towel, so the embroidery isn't flattened.
- Spot-clean small stains with a damp cloth rather than washing the whole garment.
Handling common stains
| Stain | What to do |
|---|---|
| Turmeric (haldi) | Rinse in cold water, rub in dish soap, dry in sunlight. |
| Oil or ghee | Sprinkle talc or cornflour, leave for an hour, brush off, then wash. |
| Henna | Rinse with cold water immediately, then soak in a mix of cold water and a little lemon juice (not on silk). |
| Lipstick or kajal | Dab with a little micellar water or dish soap, then rinse. |
| Wax from diyas | Let it harden, scrape it off, then iron over a paper towel to lift the rest. |
Test any stain remover on an inside seam first, and take expensive silk and zari to a professional.
Storing ethnic wear between festivals
- Silk sarees: wrap in muslin or a cotton cloth, not plastic. Silk needs to breathe.
- Refold every two to three months. Silk and zari can crack along permanent folds.
- Embellished pieces: store flat, with tissue paper between folds, so sequins don't snag on each other.
- Anarkalis and lehengas: hang on padded hangers, inside a cotton garment bag.
- Keep out pests: dried neem leaves or cloves in the cupboard work well. Avoid naphthalene balls in direct contact with silk.
- Zari care: keep zari away from moisture and perfume, which tarnish the metallic thread.
A little care after each wear goes a long way. Spot-clean quickly, wash by fabric, and store properly, and your festive wear will last for many years of celebrations.