Most kurti returns in India have nothing to do with quality. The size was wrong. The label said M, your usual size is M, and still the armholes cut in or the hips pulled across the side slits. The fix is simple: stop shopping by the letter on the label and start shopping by your own measurements. It takes ten minutes, and you only need to do it once or twice a year.
What you need
- A soft measuring tape (the cloth or plastic tailor's tape, not a metal one).
- A mirror, or a friend to help with shoulder and back measurements.
- Light clothing, or the inner layer you normally wear under a kurti. Measuring over a thick sweater can add 2 to 3 cm.
- A notebook or a note on your phone, so you can check it every time you shop.
The five measurements that matter
1. Bust
Stand straight with your arms relaxed. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your chest, keeping it level across your back. It should be snug, but you should be able to slide one finger underneath. This is the most important number for fitted styles like Anarkalis and princess-cut kurtis.
2. Waist
Find your natural waist, the narrowest part of your torso, usually a little above the belly button. Bend sideways and the crease that forms is your waist. Measure around it without holding your breath.
3. Hips
Stand with your feet together and measure around the widest part of your hips and seat. For straight kurtis this is often the deciding number. If the kurti is tight at the hips, the side slits will open up and the hem will ride up when you sit.
4. Shoulder
Measure across your back from the tip of one shoulder bone to the other. This is where a friend helps. Kurtis with set-in sleeves will feel tight across the back if this is off, even when the bust fits.
5. Length
Measure from the highest point of your shoulder, next to the neck, straight down to where you want the kurti to end. Short kurtis usually fall at mid-thigh (around 30 to 34 inches for an average height), knee-length styles at 38 to 42 inches, and Anarkalis anywhere from 44 inches to the floor.
How to read a size chart
Every seller's chart lists either body measurements or garment measurements, and mixing them up is the most common mistake. A body measurement is your size. A garment measurement is the size of the kurti laid flat, which already includes ease, the extra room that lets you move.
As a rough guide, a comfortable kurti has these amounts of ease:
| Area | Fitted kurti | Relaxed kurti |
|---|---|---|
| Bust | +2 to 3 inches | +4 to 6 inches |
| Waist | +2 to 3 inches | +5 inches or more |
| Hips | +3 to 4 inches | +5 to 7 inches |
So if your bust is 36 inches and the chart says "garment bust 38", that will be a fitted kurti. If it says "bust 36", check whether that is body or garment. If it is garment, it will be too tight.
Common Indian sizing labels
Most Indian brands use bust as the base measurement, but the numbers differ between labels. The table below is a typical average, not a rule:
| Label | Body bust (inches) |
|---|---|
| XS | 32 |
| S | 34 |
| M | 36 |
| L | 38 |
| XL | 40 |
| XXL | 42 |
Some brands also label by number, for example 36, 38 or 40, which usually means the body bust in inches.
When you are between two sizes
- Straight and A-line kurtis: choose the size that fits your hips. Taking in the bust is an easy tailor fix; letting out the hips often isn't possible.
- Anarkalis: choose by bust, because the skirt flares from under the bust and the hips don't matter much.
- Kurtis with side zips or fitted waists: choose by the larger of bust and waist.
- Cotton: pure cotton can shrink 2 to 3 percent in the first wash, so lean towards the bigger size unless it says pre-shrunk.
A quick check when the kurti arrives
- Raise both arms above your head. If the kurti pulls tight across the back or the hem rises a lot, the shoulder or bust is too small.
- Sit on a chair. The side slits should stay closed above your hip and not strain at the top stitch.
- Look at the shoulder seam. It should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone, not halfway down your arm or up on your collarbone.
- Check the sleeve. You should be able to bend your elbow without the fabric digging in.
Write your numbers down and update them every six months or after any big change in weight. With your own measurements to hand, a size chart takes seconds to check, and you will send far fewer parcels back.