An Indian wedding is rarely one day. Before the ceremony itself there are usually three main functions: the haldi, the mehendi and the sangeet. Each has its own mood, its own time of day and, often, its own unspoken dress code. Wearing the same heavy lehenga to all three is uncomfortable and impractical. Here is how to think about each one.
Haldi: bright, simple and ready to get messy
The haldi ceremony is usually held in the morning or early afternoon, often outdoors or in a courtyard. Turmeric paste is applied to the bride or groom, and it rarely stays only on them. Guests near the action will get a smear or two.
What works
- Colours: yellow is traditional, but marigold orange, mint, white and light pink all work well in morning light.
- Fabrics: cotton, mulmul, linen blends and light rayon. You will be sitting on the floor or low seating, often in the heat.
- Outfits: a cotton kurta with palazzos or a sharara, a simple cotton saree, or a breezy co-ord set. Men usually wear a cotton kurta with churidar or pyjama.
What to avoid
- Anything you would be upset to see stained, including white silk and expensive chiffon.
- Heavy embroidery and sequins. They are uncomfortable in daylight heat and catch turmeric paste.
- Long dupattas that drag on the floor. Pin them or skip them.
Tip: turmeric stains are easiest to remove while fresh. Rinse in cold water, rub in a little dish soap, and dry the garment in direct sunlight, which helps fade the yellow.
Mehendi: colourful, comfortable and hands-free
The mehendi is usually a relaxed afternoon or evening event. The bride and many guests have henna applied, which means sitting still for a long time with both hands occupied. It is also one of the most colourful functions, with music, dancing and floral decor.
What works
- Colours: greens of every shade are traditional, along with bright pinks, oranges, turquoise and multi-colour prints.
- Fabrics: georgette, chiffon, light cotton silk and printed rayon. Light fabrics move well when you dance.
- Outfits: a printed lehenga with a short choli, a flared Anarkali, a sharara set, or an indo-western skirt with a crop top. Fusion is very common at mehendi.
Practical points
- Choose short or three-quarter sleeves. Full sleeves get in the way of henna on your forearms.
- Avoid tight fitting, back-hook blouses or side zips that you can't open with henna on your hands. Someone will need to help you.
- Pin your dupatta in place before the henna goes on. You won't be able to adjust it for an hour or more.
Sangeet: the evening to dress up
The sangeet is the party. It is held in the evening, often in a banquet hall or a lawn under lights, with performances by family members and a long session on the dance floor. This is where glamour is expected.
What works
- Colours: jewel tones such as wine, emerald, royal blue and deep purple, plus black, metallics and pastels with heavy embellishment.
- Fabrics: net, georgette, velvet in winter, silk and sequinned fabrics that catch stage lights.
- Outfits: a lehenga with a dramatic dupatta, a sequinned saree, a floor-length Anarkali or a modern gown. Men often wear a bandhgala, Nehru jacket or embroidered kurta set.
Practical points
- You will dance. Do a twirl test at home. If the lehenga is too heavy to move in, or the blouse pinches when you raise your arms, change it.
- Choose block heels or embellished flats over stilettos. Lawns and dance floors are hard on thin heels.
- If you are performing, rehearse once in the actual outfit. Dupattas and pallus need pinning.
One outfit for all three?
If you are travelling light or attending as a guest of a guest, one versatile set can cover two or three functions with changes in styling:
- Start with a mid-weight kurta set in a solid colour, such as a beige or soft pink Anarkali with straight pants.
- For the haldi: wear it plain with a cotton dupatta and flat juttis.
- For the mehendi: swap in a bright printed or bandhani dupatta and add silver oxidised jewellery.
- For the sangeet: change to a heavy embroidered or sequinned dupatta, statement earrings and heels.
Before you choose anything
Ask the family whether there is a colour theme. Many weddings now share colour codes for each function on the invitation or in a family WhatsApp group, and matching them makes the photos look much better. If there is no theme, the guidance above will keep you comfortable and appropriate at every function.